Wakasa Bay — Saba Kaido Mackerel Route Heritage

**Fish market timing:** The auction begins at 6:00am — arrive by 6:30am to watch from the public viewing balcony as buyers bid on the morning catch. The market transitions to retail sales at 7:00am, when locals purchase ultra-fresh fish for the day. The attached restaurant Wakasa-tei opens at 7:30am serving kaisendon (seafood bowls) made from that morning's catch — grilled saba, raw tilefish, and sea urchin over rice for ¥1,800. No reservation, cash only. **Saba Kaido trail section:** The full 72km Mackerel Route is a multi-day trek, but the Obama to Kumagawa section (18km, 6–7 hours) captures the essence: cedar forests, mountain passes with stone Buddha statues, and traditional rest stations (now small museums). The trail is well-marked and maintained. Start at Hachiman Shrine in Obama, finish at Kumagawa-juku post town (preserved Edo-period buildings). Bus service returns to Obama (1 hour). **Wakasa mackerel preparation:** Local restaurants serve heshiko — mackerel fermented in rice-bran paste for 1–2 years, creating an intensely funky, umami-rich product similar to cheese. It's an acquired taste but represents Obama's preservation heritage. Try it at Kamotsuru (かも鶴, reservations recommended) as part of a Wakasa kaiseki course (¥6,000–8,000). **Myotsuji Temple five-story pagoda:** Located 10 minutes from Obama Station, this National Treasure pagoda (built 1270) is one of the oldest wooden structures in Hokuriku. The temple grounds overlook Wakasa Bay — the pagoda silhouetted against the sea is a classic Fukui photograph. Free entry to grounds; ¥400 for inner temple.