Shimanami Kaido — Island-Hopping Cycling Route Paradise

**West-to-east wind dynamics:** Prevailing winds blow west to east March through October, giving Onomichi-to-Imabari riders a tailwind 60% of the time. The Imabari-to-Onomichi direction fights 15-20 km/h headwinds on bridge crossings—doable but demoralizing when you're already tired. The Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge at kilometer 65 is the emotional peak; hitting it first thing from Imabari feels anticlimactic. Return options from Imabari: JR train to Hiroshima with bike (¥2,640, 2.5 hours, bikes allowed in last car, no reservation needed), or expressway bus (¥3,200, 2 hours, bike goes in luggage bay, must arrive 15 min early). The bus is faster but you'll stress about your bike getting scratched. If you rented in Onomichi, the ¥1,100 one-way drop fee at Imabari Sunrise Itoyama rental terminal saves backtracking. **E-bike calculus:** Regular cross bikes (¥1,200/day) work fine if you cycle regularly at home. E-bikes (¥2,000/day) make sense for three groups: people over 50, anyone carrying luggage, and riders who haven't biked 50+ km before. The route has 14 bridge approaches with 4-6% grades—short (200-400 meters) but punchy. E-bikes erase these entirely. Battery range is 70-80 km on eco mode, 50-60 km on full assist. Rental stations on Ikuchijima and Omishima have charging points, but most riders don't need a mid-ride charge. Giant e-bikes (the most common rental brand) weigh 22 kg; if the battery dies, you're pedaling a boat anchor uphill. Keep it in eco mode and you're fine. One caveat: e-bikes have rear hub motors that make the back end heavy—they wobble more in crosswinds on bridges. Strong gusts (15+ m/s) can push you sideways. Check wind forecasts day-of. **Island stop realities:** Ikuchijima's Setoda town clusters around the Kosanji Temple area. Lemon ramen at Tsukiwa (月和, ¥850, closes 15:00) is the local flex—chicken broth with lemon peel and lemon juice, garnished with lemon slices. It's intensely citric, almost ceviche-like. You'll either love it or hate it. Dolce gelateria (ドルチェ, near the port) does lemon gelato (¥450) that's more balanced. Kosanji Temple (¥1,400 entry) takes 45 minutes if you rush, 90 if you read plaques. The "Hill of Hope" marble sculpture garden is up 200 steps and worth skipping unless you like mid-century abstract art. Omishima's Oyamazumi Shrine (大山祇神社, ¥1,000 for treasure hall) holds armor worn by Minamoto no Yoshitsune (1185) and swords from the Kamakura period. The treasure hall is climate-controlled and dimly lit—your eyes need 5 minutes to adjust. Budget 40 minutes. FamilyMart on Omishima (near Miyaura Port) is the last reliable food source before the final 20 km to Imabari; stock up on Pocari Sweat and onigiri. The route is safe—maybe 8 cm shoulder between the blue line and the guardrail on some bridges—but traffic is light. Biggest hazard: other tourists wobbling on rental bikes while taking selfies.