Onomichi Ramen — Soy-Based Pork Back Fat Noodles

**Shop selection strategy:** Tsutafuji (朱華園) is Onomichi ramen's most famous shop, with lines forming before opening (often 30–60 minute waits during lunch). The bowl is archetypal Onomichi-style — generous seabura (back fat), strong shoyu flavor, firm flat noodles. However, the fame attracts tourists, and some locals prefer less crowded alternatives with comparable quality. Kukai (空海), near JR Onomichi Station, offers similar style with shorter waits and is more accessible for travelers on tight schedules. Azuma (東珍康) represents 'classic' Onomichi ramen with less back fat, appealing to those who find heavy seabura overwhelming. **Back fat tolerance:** Seabura (pork back fat) divides opinion — enthusiasts love the richness and textural contrast (soft fat melting into broth), while others find it greasy. You can request less back fat (背脂少なめ, seabura sukuname) or no back fat (背脂なし, seabura nashi) when ordering. However, trying it once with standard seabura is recommended to experience authentic Onomichi style — the fat adds significant warmth and umami. The back fat is not heavily rendered, so it retains a soft, almost buttery consistency rather than crispy fried texture. **Noodle and broth notes:** Onomichi ramen's flat noodles are locally made, and their width/thickness varies slightly between shops. They're firmer than typical ramen noodles, requiring thorough chewing — this prevents them from becoming soggy in the broth and provides satisfying texture. The broth, while shoyu-forward, shouldn't taste overwhelmingly salty; quality shops balance soy with chicken and fish stocks. Drinking the broth is encouraged — it's the bowl's soul. Pair with standard ramen sides: gyoza (¥300–400) or takikomi gohan (seasoned rice, ¥150–250).