Naramachi — Edo-Period Merchant District

**Machiya cafe recommendations:** Yu-sai (遊彩, renovated machiya serving matcha parfaits and traditional sweets in tatami rooms, ¥900–1,500), Cafe Kanna (カフェ環奈, organic lunch sets in 100-year-old townhouse, ¥1,200), and Naramachi Koshino-ie Cafe (traditional building with courtyard garden, matcha set ¥800). These cafes allow you to experience machiya interiors (high ceilings, inner gardens, traditional joinery) while resting from walking. Reservations not required but weekend waits can reach 20–30 minutes. **Craft shop highlights:** Nara Sumi-no-Yakata (墨の資料館) exhibits sumi ink production — Nara produces 90% of Japan's traditional ink sticks used in calligraphy and sumi-e painting. Free entry, demonstrations on request. Naramachi Fude (筆) shop sells handmade calligraphy brushes crafted by local artisans (¥2,000–20,000 depending on hair type — horse, goat, weasel). Shop staff provide English explanations of brush types. These crafts represent living traditions with centuries of refinement. **Evening atmosphere:** Naramachi transforms at dusk when paper lanterns light shop fronts and the crowds thin. The 17:00–19:00 window offers atmospheric photography with warm light spilling from machiya windows onto stone paths. Most shops close by 18:00 but cafes and restaurants remain open. The district feels authentic and residential rather than theme-park-like — locals live in many machiya, so maintain respectful noise levels and don't photograph into private homes.