Nagara River Cormorant Fishing (Ukai) — 1,300-Year Tradition

**Boat choices:** Shared boats (ai-nosé) seat 6–20 strangers, depart on fixed schedule, and cost ¥3,500 per person. Chartered boats cost ¥46,500 total (up to 15 passengers), which breaks down to ¥3,100 each if you fill all seats. Chartering lets you bring food and alcohol, pick your departure time, and follow the fishing boats closer. Groups of five or more save money by chartering. Solo travelers or couples should join shared boats. **Pack smart:** Chartered boats welcome outside food — grab bento boxes from Gifu Station or bring sake bottles. Shared boats sell beer and dried squid for ¥500–800. Even summer nights drop to 20°C on the water. Bring a light jacket and stuff it in your bag during the day. Phone cameras can't capture the darkness and torch flames — watch instead of photographing. Your memory will outlast blurry photos. **Claim the bow:** On shared boats, request bow seating when booking. You'll sit 3 meters from the fishing boats when they pull alongside. Stern seats face engine noise and exhaust. Midship balances view and stability, good if you get seasick (though the river barely ripples). **Imperial connection:** These six fishermen families hold appointments from the Imperial Household Agency. They're not performers — they supply ayu to the Imperial Palace using 1,300-year-old techniques. Each fisherman trains for 20+ years mastering bird handling, river reading, and torch placement. You're watching living imperial tradition, not a show. **Before and after:** Eat dinner at 18:00 along Kawara-machi (10-minute walk from the dock). Most riverside restaurants serve Gifu's specialty ayu salt-grilled (¥1,500). Walk to the dock by 18:45 for the 19:00 departure. After the 90-minute cruise, Gifu Castle glows gold on the mountain behind you — photograph it from the riverside before heading back.