Magome-juku — Hillside Post Town on the Nakasendo

**Tsumago–Magome hike direction:** Most hikers walk Magome → Tsumago (downhill, easier on knees). The opposite direction (Tsumago → Magome, uphill finish) rewards you with Magome's upper-town view and a celebratory gohei-mochi at the summit. Both directions take ~3 hours; choose based on fitness level. **Gohei-mochi ritual:** This Kiso Valley specialty is pounded rice formed around a wooden skewer, grilled over charcoal, and brushed with sweet miso-walnut sauce. Buy from street vendors (¥400–500) while ascending Magome's main street. The best version is at Matsunoya (まつのや, halfway up, ¥450) — the miso sauce is made daily with local walnuts. **Overnight alternative:** Tajimaya Ryokan (但馬屋, ¥18,000–28,000 per night with kaiseki dinner) occupies a 200-year-old merchant house at Magome's summit. Private cypress baths, mountain views, and multi-course dinners using Kiso beef and river fish. More upscale than Tsumago's minshuku. **Best viewpoint:** Walk past the main street to the observation deck (10-min uphill, behind Toson Museum). Panoramic view of the Kiso Valley, Mount Ena, and, on clear days, the Northern Japanese Alps. Sunrise (6:00–7:00) is magical if staying overnight.