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Fudoki Japan

Gokanosho

Little knownBarely documented in English. This is the kind of place the site exists for.

Researched and written by

GokanoshoHeike refugeesYatsushirosuspension bridgesmountain settlements
Gokanosho — location in Kumamoto, Yatsushiro

Kumamoto · Yatsushiro

32.5084°N, 130.9733°E

What sets Gokanosho apart from other natural sites in Kumamoto is how much depends on conditions outside anyone's control.

Gokanosho is five settlements — Shiihara, Kurako, Hagi, Nitao and Momiki — scattered through mountains of thirteen hundred to seventeen hundred metres in the interior of Yatsushiro, and the tradition is that Heike survivors fled here after the clan's defeat in 1185 and were never found. The isolation is real: the roads in are long, narrow and slow even now.

The Heike no Sato interpretive village displays relics and has a noh stage where the traditional performing arts of the settlements are staged, with a thatched restaurant serving mountain vegetables and hand-cut soba. Around it are the Momiki suspension bridges, the Umenoki-Todoroki park bridge and Sendan-Todoroki falls. Autumn is the season and the drive is most of the day.

Plan your visit

Time to allow

Half a day to a full day

Hours

Roads open in daylight | Heike no Sato keeps its own hours

Closed: Roads affected by winter conditions and landslides — confirm before travelling

Best time to visit

Late October–November for autumn colour | Late April–May for fresh green

Entry fee

Free to drive | Heike no Sato and historic houses charged separately

Finding your way there

Access notes

Izumi-machi, Yatsushiro, in the mountains of the prefecture's interior at 1,300–1,700 m. Car essential; the approach roads are long, narrow and slow, and the drive from Yatsushiro takes well over an hour. The Heike no Sato interpretive village displays Heike relics, has a noh stage for traditional performances and a thatched restaurant serving mountain vegetables and soba; it keeps its own hours and charges separately. The Sazae, Ogata and Kurako historic houses can be visited. Momiki suspension bridge, Umenoki-Todoroki park bridge and Sendan-Todoroki falls are in the area. Confirm road conditions before travelling.

What to bring

**The drive is the trip.** Well over an hour from Yatsushiro on narrow mountain roads, and the settlements are spread across the range. Half a day minimum, and a full day is realistic. **Check road conditions first.** These roads have been closed by landslides and by the 2020 floods. Confirm before setting out rather than discovering it at a barrier. **Five settlements, not one place.** Shiihara, Kurako, Hagi, Nitao and Momiki. Gokanosho is the name for the group, and driving between them is the experience. **Eat at Heike no Sato.** The thatched restaurant serves mountain vegetables and hand-cut soba, and there is very little else once you are up here. **Autumn is the season.** Late October to November for colour, on suspension bridges over deep gorges. Winter closes much of it.

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