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Johana Betsuin Zentokuji

Little knownBarely documented in English. This is the kind of place the site exists for.

Researched and written by

ZentokujiJohanaJodo ShinshuNantohikiyama floats
Illustration of Johana Betsuin Zentokuji, Toyama
Illustration — not a photograph

Before Johana Betsuin Zentokuji became a stop on any list, it was — and still is — a working place of worship in Toyama.

Zentokuji was founded around 530 years ago by Rennyo, the eighth head of the Honganji and the man who turned Jodo Shinshu from a minority sect into the largest Buddhist movement in Japan. It is now the Johana branch temple of the Otani-ha, and the compound is much bigger than the small silk-weaving town around it would suggest: a main hall of substantial scale, a corridor of connected buildings, and a storehouse holding something like ten thousand temple treasures.

Some are permanently displayed, including a manuscript of the Yuishinsho in Shinran's own hand. The town outside is worth walking too — Johana made silk for centuries and behind the float museum there is a lane of stone paving with four burnt-cedar storehouses along it. The Johana Hikiyama festival floats, kept a few minutes away, are among the most elaborate in the prefecture.

Visiting essentials

Best time to visit

Year-round | May for the Johana Hikiyama float festival

Hours

Varies — confirm locally before travelling

Closed: Confirm locally

Admission

Confirm locally | Float museum charged separately

Time to allow

60–90 minutes | 2 hours with the float museum and the town

Finding your way there

Access notes

Johana, Nanto. About a short walk from Johana Station on the JR Johana Line. The Johana Hikiyama Kaikan float museum is about 3 minutes further on foot. Hours and admission for the temple and the float museum vary — confirm locally before travelling.

Beyond the guidebook

**The treasure display is the reason to go inside.** Around ten thousand objects are held here with a rotating selection shown, including a Yuishinsho manuscript attributed to Shinran's own hand. That is a considerable thing to find in a town of this size. **Walk the lane behind the float museum.** Four burnt-cedar storehouses along a stone-paved alley, a couple of minutes from the temple, and almost nobody photographs them. **Confirm hours before you go.** Published times for the temple and the float museum vary between sources. A phone call or a check with the Nanto tourist information saves a wasted trip. **Johana is on a rail line.** The JR Johana Line runs from Takaoka, which makes this one of the few places in Nanto reachable without a car — unlike Gokayama or Toga. **The float festival is in May.** The Johana Hikiyama Matsuri runs the floats through the town; outside it, they are in the museum.

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