Hakone Yumoto Onsen — Gateway Hot Spring Town

**Tenzan vs Yunessan:** Tenzan Onsen (天山湯治郷) is traditional Japanese bathhouse — gender-separated nude bathing, large outdoor rotenburo pools in forest setting, natural rock formations, quiet atmosphere. Water is genuine alkaline hot spring (42°C). Facilities include multiple indoor/outdoor pools, sauna, and rest area. Entry ¥1,300, 4-hour limit. Yunessan (ユネッサン) is theme park-style — swimsuit-required pools with attractions like wine bath, coffee bath, and waterslides (family-friendly but gimmicky). Separate nude onsen section is available (Mori-no-Yu, quieter, ¥1,900). Yunessan is popular with families/tourists seeking novelty; Tenzan is preferred by onsen purists. **Hakone marquetry (yosegi-zaiku):** The town is famous for yosegi-zaiku (寄木細工) — geometric wood mosaic patterns created by gluing different colored woods into blocks, slicing thin veneers, and applying to boxes, coasters, and puzzle boxes. The secret-opening puzzle boxes (himitsu-bako, 秘密箱) are signature products — require 4–21 precise sliding moves to open, with compartments hidden inside. Prices range ¥2,000–20,000 depending on complexity. Several workshops along Yumoto Shotengai demonstrate the craft; some offer hands-on making experience (¥3,000–5,000, reservation required, 90 min). Quality varies; look for shops with 'Hakone Traditional Craft' certification. **Day-trip timing:** Arrive Hakone-Yumoto 10:00 → explore Yumoto Shotengai shopping street (30 min, browse crafts, buy onsen manju) → Tenzan Onsen bathing (90 min, lunch available on-site or nearby) → afternoon explore upper Hakone (Lake Ashi, Owakudani via bus/ropeway) → return to Yumoto for evening foot-bath and dinner → depart by 20:00. This allows onsen bathing plus major Hakone sights in single day. Alternatively, base overnight in Yumoto (ryokan ¥18,000–30,000/person with dinner/breakfast) and use it as hub for 2-day Hakone exploration.